c. Processing of Silk: In order to produce unpierced cocoon the chrysalis is killed by heat in dry air, more rarely by hot water or steam. The cocoons are weighed; the female moths being heavier, can thus be selected and allowed to escape. The moths live only a few days, during which they mate and lay eggs. It is estimated that nearly 3000 cocoons are required to make a yard of silk fabric. Silkworms are subject to many diseases. The most important of these is pebrine. The worms are damaged by changes in room temperature and by moisture in their food. These factors influence the quality of silk produced. Wild silk is that produced from other types of moths, which have not lent themselves to domestication. These cocoons must be sought in the trees and many of them have already been pierced when found. Wild silk is less uniform but is coarser and somewhat stronger than the cultivated variety. The most common wild silk is that from the tussah or tussar silkworm of Asia. This worm feeds on mulberry, oak and other trees. The term is generally applied to all wild silks, but strictly speaking tussah is an Indian silkworm.

Motifs: The motifs used are mostly flowers, foliages, creepers and birds. Stitches: Stitches like satin, back, stem, buttonhole and herringbone stitches are used. a. Bukhia: Bukhia is nothing but satin stitch, which is done on the wrong side of the material and the design is delicately outlined with tiny running stitches from the right side. This sort of embroidery gives an opaque effect. The effect of fine muslin background produces a shadow appearance.