2. Sleeve with gathers at top only: This type of sleeve is sometimes used in dresses. The lower edge of this sleeve has no fullness, but the top edge has fullness in the form of gathers. To prepare the pattern, take the basic short sleeve pattern and draw slash lines as explained earlier. Now slash along these lines from top to almost near the bottom edge. Keep the slashed pattern on another sheet of paper and spread open Plain Sleeve Sleeve gathered at top 170 the upper edge, the required amount of fullness as shown in figure. You may spread the sleeve so that E to F is about 17 (i.e. 1 less than half width of dress fabric so that two sleeves can be cut from one length of sleeve). Increase the length of the sleeve by 1 to 2 as shown for puffing. Draw the outline of the new sleeve on the new sheet of paper. (The top edge is shown with dotted line).
2. Back stitch: The back stitch is strong and sometimes substituted for machine stitch. It takes much time. Care must be taken while stitching, since stitching is done on the right side of the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric the stitch is similar to stem stitch. Stitches should be about 1/8 long on the right side. To make the back stitch, push needle up through the material at a point on the stitching line about 1/8 from its right end. Take a stitch inserting the needle 1/8 back of the thread at the beginning of the stitching line and bringing it out an equal distance in the front of the thread. Repeat this way, keeping stitches uniform in size and fairly firm.