4. Hemming stitch: This is used to finish the raw edge of the garment usually referred as the hem. Hemming must be fine, evenly spaced and must be inconspicuous from the right side of the garment. Start the hem with a tiny knot and finish with the same. Hemming must be as invisible as possible on the right side. Of the garment do slanting stitch on wrong side, close enough to hold the hem securely, picking one or two yarns of the fabric. Usually this stitch is seen in all types of garments. Improperly hemmed garment may show problem as: Hemming stitch 1. Stitches straightly formed 4. Knot prominently shown on right side 2. Puckered hem 5. Attached thread shown on right side 3. Stitches not evenly spaced This stitch is used for finishing sleeve edges, handkerchief, skirt, hemline, neckline edges, piping, pillow covers and other edges also.

6. Raglan Sleeve: This is used where shoulder seam and armhole seam are not needed. These sleeves are more comfortable than other sleeves. These are used in sports wear, kids wear and T-Shirt. On the back bodice pattern, mark D 1 above underarm point. Mark A, to Sleeves gathered at top & bottom Bell Sleeve Leg-O-Mutton Sleeve 171 1 away from N. Connect AD and draw a gentle curve line ABD over it. Mark a matching notch on this curved as shown. Following the same procedure, draw curved line EH on the front pattern and mark a double notch on this curve. Cut away raglan sections from the bodice patterns by cutting along ABD and EFH. Trace the sleeve pattern on a large paper and mark L, mid point of sleeve cap seam line. Keep the cut out raglan sections over the top of the sleeve with shoulder tips S touching L, and points D and E resting on sleeve cap line. NSNI forms a large dart. The original sleeve pattern with this extension added will be the pattern for the raglan sleeve. The finished appearance of a raglan blouse is shown in the figure. The seam for the seam runs from neckline to armhole line.